Kyoto has many summer traditions, but the one that shines brightest is the Kamo River noryo-yuka. These are tatami-matted terraces that hang over the idyllic banks of the Kamo River, which winds through Kyoto City, allowing one to indulge in a meal while relishing the cool breeze. This comprehensive article will guide you through the history, etiquette, and ways to enjoy the Kamo River noryo-yuka, equipping you with all the knowledge you’ll need to join in on this quintessential Kyoto summer experience!
What Are Noryo-Yuka and Kawadoko?
The noryo-yuka on the Kamo River are particularly famous, but there are also two other places with similar establishments located in Kibune and Takao. Each has a unique atmosphere, and the restaurants within proudly present their own special dishes.
The Kamo River Noryo-Yuka
The Kamo River, which runs north to south through Kyoto City, is about 23 kilometers long. The Kamo River noryo-yuka is set up along its banks, serving as a place for the city's residents to relax. It's a much-anticipated tradition, and an iconic symbol of summer in Kyoto. They are also located just a short walk from Shijo Kawaramachi, Pontocho, and Gion, which are some of the top sightseeing districts in Kyoto, naturally attracting flocks of tourists each year.
Opening period: May 1–October 31, 2023
*Previous years ran from May 1 to the end of September. The individual opening period and lunchtime hours vary depending on the restaurant.
Kibune's Kawadoko
Kibune kawadoko are set up in the Kibune area, often called the inner parlor of Kyoto. Its origins date back to the Taisho era (1912–1926), starting with teahouses setting up chairs by the Kibune River for guests to cool off by dipping their feet in the water.
The Kibune area is about 10 degrees cooler than urban Kyoto, making it comfortable even in the middle of summer. Here, you can enjoy your meal amidst fresh air and crystal-clear water flowing right next to your table.
Opening period: May 1–September 30, 2023
Takao's Kawadoko
Takao kawadoko have a longer opening period than the other two. The surroundings here are abundant in greenery, and it's around 3-5 degrees cooler than Kyoto's urban areas, offering another sanctuary from the city. While listening to the babbling of the Kiyotaki River, diners can revel in the changing scenery of each season, like spring flowers, lush summer foliage, and vibrant autumn leaves.
Opening period: April 1–November 30, 2023
*Nighttime kawadoko are open until late October. The opening period varies for each restaurant.
When Did the Kamo River Noryo-Yuka Start?
The traditions of the Kamo River noryo-yuka are said to have begun during the Momoyama period (1568–1600). After events like the rebuilding of the Sanjo and Gojo bridges by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the riverbank of the Kamo River became a popular hangout, hosting shows and stalls. The installation of viewing seats by merchants and the construction of teahouses in response to this trend marked its early beginnings.
What Makes Them Unique?
These days, around 90 establishments, including traditional Japanese restaurants, ryokan inns, restaurants, cafes, and bars, operate on the terraces between Nijo and Gojo on the west bank of the Kamo River. The typical opening period is from May 1 to the end of September, but in 2023 it will run from May 1 to October 31.
Must-try Kyoto's summer delicacies include hamo (pike conger eel) and ayu (sweetfish). Many restaurants serve dishes featuring hamo (this picture shows parboiled hamo) and ayu grilled with salt. Be sure to give them a try!
How to Enjoy the Kamo River Noryo-Yuka
The rainy season in Kyoto typically lasts from early June to mid-July. As it often rains during these weeks, those concerned about the weather should avoid this period. The refreshing coolness of the river is best appreciated from late July to August, when the rainy season has ended and the weather becomes hot and humid. However, if you're not fond of the heat, it may be better to aim for the cooler months of May or September.
The Kamo River noryo-yuka can be enjoyed both day and night, but the sunlight can be intense in July and August, so it's much more pleasant at night during these months. With the enchanting orange lights lined up along the river and the sight of locals relaxing by the riverside, there’s nowhere better to take in the summertime vibe of Kyoto than from a noryo-yuka.
On particularly hot days, bringing a fan or uchiwa (Japanese hand fan) can help you cool down and look even more like a local. On the other hand, it can sometimes get chilly near the water, so it’s a good idea to bring an extra layer to wear over your summer clothes.
・Noryo-Yuka Etiquette
1. Noryo-yuka seats are popular, so making a reservation early is the way to go. Reservations are essential on weekends in July and August, when it tends to be busy.
2. Please refrain from canceling at the last minute in case of rain, as it inconveniences the restaurant. Indoor seating will be provided instead of the Noryo-Yuka seats.
3. Most restaurants do not have specific dress codes. However, since many come to enjoy the refined atmosphere, it is better to follow basic manners and avoid overly casual or sloppy clothing.
4. Avoid going without socks if you're dining in a Japanese restaurant with tatami rooms.
5. Even though the noryo-yuka seats are outdoors, please avoid rowdy behavior, such as talking loudly. Speak at a volume where you can still hear the river flowing to best enjoy the experience.
6. Even in restaurants where smoking is allowed, please be considerate when smoking. Avoid letting the smoke drift toward other customers, especially on windy days.
Recommended Kamo River Noryo-Yuka Restaurant Serving Kyoto Cuisine
Pontochotakara (Gion-shijo / Japanese Cuisine)
Each ingredient, including the seafood and more, is purchased fresh at the market by the owner and cooked using simple techniques with a delicate hand to bring out the natural goodness. Their signature cuisine is Kyoto kaiseki, which is refined and elegant, pleasing both the eyes and the palate. The Lunch Kaiseki Assortment (3,240 JPY) presents a casual but luxurious lunch, while the Kyoto Kaiseki Assortment (7,560 JPY) is for those looking to indulge in top-quality ingredients.
The restaurant also has private rooms for up to 12 and Japanese-style rooms for up to 30. The riverside noryo-yuka seating can accommodate up to 60 people, but because it is very popular, advanced reservations are necessary.
Pontochotakara is the perfect restaurant to discover the true traditions of summer in Kyoto.
Pontochotakara
Closed: Mondays
Average price: [Dinner] 10,000 JPY / [Lunch] 4,000 JPY
Access: 1 minute walk from Kawaramachi Station. Take Exit 1, follow along the Kamo River towards Sanjo and it will be on your right.
Address: 173-2 Pontocho-dori Shijo Agaru Kashiwaya-cho , Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto, Kyoto Map
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