Ideal Tonkatsu Restaurant Perfecting

Update-date: Oct 08 2024

Author: SAVOR JAPAN

The catchy name of the restaurant is surprising, but it makes sense when one hears that Chef Tsukasa Kitano from the popular restaurant "malca" in Gaienmae is behind it. Known for his love of tonkatsu, Chef Kitano confidently opened this talked-about restaurant, stating that "the staff are all tonkatsu lovers, and we shaped the ideal tonkatsu restaurant." We had the opportunity to experience just how far they have taken this concept.

See full listings of Tonkatsu restaurants found in and around Tokyo.

Hot and juicy tonkatsu that appeals to the senses.

The atmosphere is calm, reminiscent of a long-established tempura restaurant or a kaiseki restaurant. One might feel puzzled by the gap between the restaurant's name and the ambiance. "For those who came here half in doubt, wondering, 'Is this really good?', or 'What a silly name,' you can feel at ease in this atmosphere," smiles Chef Masao Tashiro as he welcomes guests.

The ideal form of a tonkatsu restaurant that has pursued the desire to eat like this | Gaienmae[Tonkatsu Kokomade Yaruka]

They use thick towel fabric for the oshibori. They want customers to feel, "Are they really going this far...?" not only for the taste but also for the meticulous hospitality that enhances the quality of everything customers touch.

The atmosphere suggests a quiet determination to change the norm. So, we asked about the main attraction, the tonkatsu, "What have you done to it?"

"Recently, what has been trending in the tonkatsu industry is the white-toned tonkatsu that is slowly fried at low temperatures. After being fried, it is rested until the meat juices stabilize before being served. This type of tonkatsu is soft and moist, but it feels somewhat lacking. While slow cooking is important to bring out the meat's flavor, what also appeals to the instincts when eating is the aroma, juiciness, and the fact that it is served hot. This is the ideal tonkatsu for tonkatsu enthusiasts like Chef Kitano and myself, as well as our staff," passionately explains Mr. Tashiro.

Mr. Tashiro aims to create a hot and juicy tonkatsu that appeals to the senses, with a fragrant aroma rising when placed in front of diners.

First, they fry it at a low temperature. Then, they place it in a pot set to a high temperature, where Mr. Tashiro fully utilizes his five senses, such as the sound of the oil, the texture when touched, and the color of the batter, to finish it off.

They are thoroughly particular about the panko, as they want customers to truly savor the flavor of the meat. So, they decided on a lightly flavored yet fragrant and crispy texture by having a panko specialty store deliver various samples with different sugar levels and grinding methods.

Both the loin and the tenderloin are thickly sliced and appear voluminous at first glance, but the loin has a light fat content. It can be enjoyed in a crispy manner, and even after finishing, it does not leave a heavy impression. "Eating it hot enhances the melt-in-your-mouth experience, allowing for lighter enjoyment," says Mr. Tashiro.
Additionally, the coating flour used on the meat is a mix of wheat flour and egg white powder, which ensures that the batter adheres firmly to the meat, allowing for a harmonious blend of flavors between the meat and the coating.

The supporting cast that enriches the tonkatsu is likewise at full strength.

The commitment to "Passion for Tonkatsu" extends to the side elements such as sauce, cabbage, rice, and miso soup. "First, the sauce is blended to create a classic flavor that suits everyone's taste, using a tomato sauce base balanced to be neither too sweet nor too heavy, while adding just a hint of spices like cardamom and nutmeg for an accent," says Mr. Tashiro.
He explains that serving this sauce hot is important because "if the tonkatsu is served hot but the sauce is cold, it ruins the experience." The decision to serve the cabbage separately was also made to prevent it from lowering the temperature or affecting the tonkatsu with the dressing.

In addition to the hot sauce, there are Mediterranean and Italian-style sauces available for those who want to change up the flavors, as well as a selection of carefully chosen salt, dashi soy sauce, and wasabi lined up right in front. When enjoyed with rice, the tonkatsu sauce or just salt is more than enough to savor, but when paired with drinks in an a la carte setting, the range of flavors expands, and the satisfaction level undoubtedly increases.

Of course, the rice and miso soup served with the set meal are carefully selected varieties that enhance rather than overpower the flavor of the tonkatsu.

A la carte and a rich selection of fine sake. A 'drinking' tonkatsu kaiseki restaurant.

Mr. Tashiro mentions, "The main offering of the restaurant is set meals, and there are few restaurants that have a rich selection of alcoholic beverages. Strengthening that aspect is also the concept of this restaurant."

He wants to expand beyond the category of "tonkatsu restaurant" and hopes that customers will use it in various situations as a dining establishment that offers delicious food and drinks. He states, "Not only can you order tonkatsu set meals, but you can also order a la carte. We have two or three types of pork available to showcase different flavors, so for set meals, we recommend the standard flavor of Kobe pork, and for pairing with wine, the rich-flavored Dorobuta or Galician Chestnut Pork."

*The types of pork may change depending on the day.

The ideal form of a tonkatsu restaurant that has pursued the desire to eat like this | Gaienmae

The menu includes items such as 'Menchi Katsu' (a minced mix of Kobe beef and branded pork) for 700 yen each, 'Aji Fry' from Noto (1 piece for 1,100 yen), 'Fried Sawara' (1 piece for 1,500 yen), and 'Fried Green tiger prawn delivered from Naruto Fisheries' (800 yen each). These can be ordered as set meals or a la carte. For those who want to enjoy both loin and fillet tonkatsu, as well as fried seafood selected from specific regions, there is a course available (11,000 yen, orderable for two or more) that allows for a little bit of everything.

This course pleasantly includes ramen as a finale. To ensure a flavor that is fitting for the conclusion after enjoying the fried dishes, a consomme soup is carefully prepared by simmering minced pork and chicken with aromatic vegetables to extract the umami and fragrance, then strained and seasoned with flavorful soy sauce.

Many people love tonkatsu and fried foods, but there are indeed not many specialized restaurants where one can slowly enjoy freshly fried, piping hot tonkatsu and fries while savoring carefully selected drinks such as wine, sake, shochu, and whiskey. This restaurant not only focuses on the ingredients and frying methods as a tonkatsu restaurant but also ensures that every aspect of the dining experience—from temperature, sauce, white rice, and drinks to the atmosphere and hospitality—is meticulously arranged to fully appreciate their dedication to "Passion for Tonkatsu." This restaurant is breaking through the limits of what a tonkatsu restaurant can be. It undoubtedly has the momentum to continue pushing boundaries and updating what it means to go 'this far,' making it an exciting place to watch as it raises the question of 'how far will they go?'

Tonkatsu Kokomade Yaruka

Open: [Weekdays, Saturday, National Holidays] Lunch 11:00 am - 3:00 pm (L.O. 2:30 pm), [Weekdays, Saturday, National Holidays, Day Before National Holidays] Dinner 6:00 pm - 10:00 pm (L.O. 9:00 pm)
Closed: Sunday
Average price: [Dinner] 7,999 JPY / [Lunch] 3,999 JPY
Access: 5 minutes walk from Exit 1 of Gaiemmae Station on the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line / 12 minutes walk from Omotesando Station on the Tokyo Metro Hanzomon Line
Address: Central Aoyama No6-BA, 3-2-4, Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
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Disclaimer: All information is accurate at time of publication.