Welcome to seafood heaven. Hakodate.
Near the southern tip of Hokkaido, Japan's vast northern wilderness, await the infinite epicurean treasures of Hakodate — which is now directly accessible by Hokkaido Shinkansen (bullet train). Below we present five restaurants sure to please gourmet adventurers.
Restaurante Vascu
35 years of Basque authenticity
Sushidokoro Kihara
Edomae Sushi the Hakodate way
Shiki Suikatei
Fresh local catch impeccably prepared
Uni Murakami Hakodake Honten
100% natural uni (sea urchin)
Katsugyoryouri Ikasei Honten
Hakodate's specialty, fresh from the pool
Restaurante Vascuレストラン バスク
Phone: 0138-56-1570
- Address:
- 1-4 Matsukage-cho, Hakodate-shi, Hokkaido
- Open:
- Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays to Sundays
Lunch 11:30 – last order 14:00
Sundays
Dinner 17:00 – last order 20:30
Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays to Saturdays
Dinner 17:00 – last order 21:00 - Closed:
- Wednesdays
The great taste of Hakodate
"While training in Spain, we cooked meat from live game we slaughtered ourselves," explains owner chef Fukaya, who similarly prefers starting from scratch whenever possible to make sure every step is done correctly. In addition to locally produced ingredients, he serves raw ham and anchovies he cures himself and bread he personally bakes in his kitchen. In the garden bordering the restaurant, he also raises vegetables in his quest to serve the most delicious possible authentic Basque cuisine.
Owner chef Fukaya has promoted Basque cuisine and culture for over 40 years. The renowned spring and autumn Baru-gai gourmet food festivals in Hakodate were also his brainchild.
Menestra braised vegetable stew deliciously blends fresh vegetable sweetness and homemade cured ham soup stock.
Grilled soi (fox jacopever) with thick, tart lemon butter sauce heaven-made for the firm flesh.
The casual interior is reminiscent of restaurants in Basque, Spain and features furnishings from Basque.
Hanging from the rafters is homemade raw ham from local Berkshire pork, cured and aged for 1 to 3 .
35 years of Basque authenticity
"Never fake it when cooking," intones owner chef Koji Fukaya while gazing far off into space. "That was the final advice I received before leaving Spain for Japan."
Koji Fukaya is widely considered Japan's leading expert in Basque cuisine. Nearly 40 years ago, he trained under Basque cuisine giant Luis Irizar in San Sebastian, Spain and returned to Japan to share his secrets. With Irizar's words firmly in mind, he has pursued Basque authenticity ever since.
When local ingredients don't meet his high standards, he produces them himself. Raw ham and anchovies, for example, are cured at his restaurant and vegetables are raised in his garden next door. Such practices are not uncommon among today's most dedicated chefs, but chef Fukaya has been doing this for 35 years.
He recommends Menestra, a braised spring vegetable stew that may not be as famous as signature Basque dishes like miniature calamari and merluza, but the soup's rich blend of cured ham and vegetable sweetness is exquisite. "People generally expect vegetable dishes to be chilled. But there are just as many hot vegetable dishes as cold ones in the Basque region," expounds Fukaya. Dining at Restaurante Vascu, one experiences the culture as well as the flavors of Basque cuisine — without a trace of artifice.
Phone: 0138-56-1570
- Address:
- 1-4 Matsukage-cho, Hakodate-shi, Hokkaido
- Open:
- Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays to Sundays
Lunch 11:30 – last order 14:00
Sundays
Dinner 17:00 – last order 20:30
Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays to Saturdays
Dinner 17:00 – last order 21:00 - Closed:
- Wednesdays
Sushidokoro Kihara鮨どころ 木はら
Phone: 0138-57-8825
- Address:
- 2-1-2 Yunokawa-cho, Hakodate-shi, Hokkaido
- Open:
- Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursday to Sundays, holidays and day before holidays
11:30 – last order 21:00
Reservations required - Closed:
- Wednesdays
The great taste of Hakodate
Pictured is the Sushi Kaiseki course consisting of three standard pieces of Edomae-style sushi and assorted dishes. He also serves sushi a la carte and in sets, dishes of grilled, fried and steamed cuisine, donburi, chirashi sushi and an omakase (chef's choice) course. Seasonal Hokkai (north sea) Hakodate Sushi is a favorite among visitors from far.
"Many tourists come to visit and I help them experience Hakodate in a special way," says shop owner Kihara. His style is Edomae, but with a Hakodate touch in every serving.
Otoro (fatty marbled tuna) from fresh, locally landed catch literally melts in your mouth.
Bafun-uni (green sea urchin) comes with salt made from konbu (kelp) broth produced in Kihara's hometown Minamikayabe.
The centerpiece of the renovated restaurant is a huge counter crafted from a single block of cedar.
Kihara procures seafood from his hometown port Minamikayabe, an Erimo cooperative and local fishermen.
Edomae Sushi the Hakodate way
Hidden away near the seashore on the outskirts of Hakodate in Yunokawa Onsen (hot springs) sits Sushidokoro Kihara. From its perch overlooking Tsugaru Strait, one can view Tsugaru Peninsula on clear days and fishing boats luring squid with illumination at night. But customers at Sushidokoro Kihara quickly forget the magnificent scenery and focus their attention on the splendid sushi spread before them.
Sushidokoro Kihara is by far the best sushi restaurant in Hakodate. It serves exceptionally delicious fresh catch from home waters, including tuna, uni (sea urchins), surumeika (short finned squid), ezo anago (Hokkaido conger eel) and botan shrimp. But what really sets this restaurant apart is the way the sushi is prepared.
"I don't make Edomae (old Tokyo style) sushi the modern Tokyo way," winks owner Shigenobu Kihara. His popular kohada (spotted sardine) sushi, for example, is vinegared and wrapped in konbu (kelp) before serving, as learned from his konbu harvesting family. And squid, Hakodate's hallmark seafood, is served with ground karamidaikon (hot Japanese radish) instead of wasabi or ginger, which were not available in the old Edo days.
"But I visit Tokyo 15 times a year and am always stimulated by the sushi shops I visit," chef Kihara shares with a smile. His addictive passion for sushi explains the great success of his Edomae sushi restaurant in Hakodate.
Phone: 0138-57-8825
- Address:
- 2-1-2 Yunokawa-cho, Hakodate-shi, Hokkaido
- Open:
- Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursday to Sundays, holidays and day before holidays
11:30 – last order 21:00
Reservations required - Closed:
- Wednesdays
Shiki Suikatei四季 粋花亭
Phone: 0138-51-1810
- Address:
- 20-6 Hon-cho, Hakodate-shi, Hokkaido
- Open:
- Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays to Sundays, holidays and the day before holidays 18:00 – 22:00
Reservations required - Closed:
- Wednesdays
The great taste of Hakodate
While being particular about the seafood he selects from Minamikayabe and Funkawan (Uchiura Bay), as well as the locally grown organic vegetables, Chef owner Iwata assures us it has nothing to do with the high status of these fishing grounds in Japan. He simply prefers the local catch. The menu is limited to omakase (chef's choice) courses because he wants to confidently serve the best possible combinations of dishes and sake.
"Shimazoi (three-stripe rockfish), ainame (greenling), suzuki (seabass), sakuramasu (cherry salmon), tsubugai (whelk), iwashi (sardines) and more. The local fishing at Minamikayabe Port is fantastic," chef Iwata assures us.
The otsukuri (sashimi dish) includes sakuramasu (cherry salmon) flavored with kelp and hobo (sea robin) from today's catch.
Separately simmered spring vegetables with tsubugai (whelk), tako (octopus) and plum meat.
The sake is carefully selected and includes the owner's favorite brands; Izumibashi, Ishizuchi and Koikawa.
There are low tables and three counter seats in the cozy shop, where Jazz softly plays in the background.
Fresh local catch impeccably prepared
Not far from Goryokaku Castle, in a residential area distant from downtown Hakodate is Shiki Suikatei. Gentle jazz music plays as you note that half the seats are missing from the L shaped counter. Shop owner Kentaro Iwata explains, "I found myself being distracted by conversations, so I hesitantly decided to remove the nearest seats so I could focus wholeheartedly on meal preparation." Somewhat eccentric but supremely dedicated, chef Iwata impresses gourmands from near and far with his mesmerizing fare.
"I try not to overdo it," adds Iwata, "but I think it's important to reflect the season. I never use nasu (eggplants) in winter, for example, or daikon (Japanese radish) in summer."
Having a deep affection for his hometown, and the ingredients produced there, Chef Iwata limits his seafood to what is caught by local fishermen. In summer, the vegetables are always organic and locally grown. The beef is kurogewagyu (Japanese black-cattle) raised in Hokuto-shi. With such superb ingredients, it's no wonder he wants to focus on bringing out their best qualities.
There are no single dishes on the menu, but guests can choose one of two omakase (chef's choice) course meals that illustrate chef Iwata's passion for perfection. About 15 brands of sake are available for pairing with the dishes. All are outstanding and Chef Iwata chose them well to match his fare and philosophy.
Phone: 0138-51-1810
- Address:
- 20-6 Hon-cho, Hakodate-shi, Hokkaido
- Open:
- Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays to Sundays, holidays and the day before holidays 18:00 – 22:00
Reservations required - Closed:
- Wednesdays
Uni Murakami Hakodake Hontenうに むらかみ 函館本店
Phone: 0138-26-8821
- Address:
- 22-1 Otemachi, Hakodate-shi, Hokkaido
- Open:
- Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays to Sundays, holidays and the day before holidays
Lunch 08:30 – last order 14:00 (From November to mid-April 09:00 – last order 14:00)
Dinner 17:00 – last order 21:00 (Opening time is unchanged from November to mid-April) - Closed:
- Wednesdays
The great taste of Hakodate
The uni is extraordinarily fresh and natural, containing absolutely no additives or preservatives. It maintains its beautiful shape without additives because it comes directly from the family's hired experts who carefully open, peel, clean and sort every uni by hand. The difference is striking not only in appearance and texture, but most importantly in rich, sweet flavor.
The uni in the unidon is fantastic plain or with dashi soy sauce. The rice is cooked stiff to contrast with the tender uni.
Most uni is caught in nearby waters — from the Pacific from November to May and the Japan Sea from June to September.
Uni gratin, a popular original dish is made from béchamel sauce chock full of uni.
The popular restaurant is in the Hakodate Asaichi (morning marketplace), not far from Hakodate train station.
There are table seats and tatami floor tables in the old Japanese style interior. Reservations are accepted except for lunches on holidays.
100% natural uni (sea urchin)
The uni (sea urchins) you see boxed on the counters of Japanese sushi bars are typically treated with an additive called myoban (alum) that makes them look more appealing. Unfortunately, myoban also alters their sweet, natural flavor.
At Uni Murakami Hakodate Honten, the uni is all-natural without any additives or even brine. The popular unidon (sea urchin bowl) densely tops rice with an orange bouquet of uni featuring the same color and egg size. As for flavor, words can't begin to describe how spectacular the uni tastes.
Tomoko Murakami, the young proprietress, explains, "I started this restaurant to let people experience the incredible taste of fresh unprocessed uni. My family runs an uni processing company where experienced workers carefully shell and sort the uni by hand."
We highly recommend first trying the uni unadorned without any sauce masking its rich, sweet flavor. The scent of the ocean fills your senses as you savor every morsel alone or with perfectly matching rice. Even if you travel all the way to Hakodate just to try this unidon, you won't be disappointed.
Phone: 0138-26-8821
- Address:
- 22-1 Otemachi, Hakodate-shi, Hokkaido
- Open:
- Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays to Sundays, holidays and the day before holidays
Lunch 08:30 – last order 14:00 (From November to mid-April 09:00 – last order 14:00)
Dinner 17:00 – last order 21:00 (Opening time is unchanged from November to mid-April) - Closed:
- Wednesdays
Katsugyoryouri Ikasei Honten活魚料理 いか清 本店
Phone: 0138-54-1919
- Address:
- 2-14 Hon-cho, Hakodate-shi, Hokkaido
- Open:
- Weekdays, Saturdays, day before holidays
17:00 – last order 23:30
Sundays and holidays
16:00 – last order 22:30 - Closed:
- Open all year
The great taste of Hakodate
Of all seafood caught off the coast of Hakodate, the largest haul is squid, which is officially designated "the seafood of Hakodate". You can enjoy this celebrity sea creature as sashimi and Ikasei Fluffy Fries (both shown here), or as zangi (fried Hokkaido style), in croquettes, on rice and in other dishes. All are delicious. But be sure to also try other local produce such as kegani (hairy crab) and asparagus.
Fresh, crunchy and sweet, yariika (spear squid) sashimi is served from January to May. Surumeika (short finned squid, also known as maika) sashimi becomes available in June, when even the fresh viscera can be eaten raw.
Ikasei Fluffy Fries combine minced squid, shrimp, scallops and vegetables without any batter. They're great with tempura sauce!
Globefish caught in Funkawan (Uchiura Bay) is gaining renown as a Hokkaido seafood. Available from May to September.
A few counter seats and several hori-gotatsu (sunken kotatsu tables) are provided, as well as private rooms for groups of at least 2.
Squid are kept fresh in a pool next to the kitchen. Chef Murota scoops them up and cleans them right away after orders are taken.
Hakodate's specialty, fresh from the pool
In a practiced instant, the living squid is removed from its pool and prepared on the cutting board. Within 5 minutes of the order, it is served on the table, tentacles still wiggling. The beautifully transparent slices glisten like tokoroten (jelly noodles).
We recommend trying the first bite without sauce to experience the crunchy texture and discover the wonderful sweetness unadorned. The squid from Hakodate is truly delicious and renowned throughout Japan. Yariika (spear squid) is caught from January to May and surumeika (short finned squid) is available from June through December (official surumeika fishing season) making Hakodate's squid haul one of the largest in Japan.
Owner chef Hidefumi Murota tells us, "when we were kids, our parents served squid sashimi every morning. Squid are part of our lifestyle here in Hakodate." Of course, only squid caught the same morning are kept in the pool. Squid from the previous day would never be served as sashimi at Katsugyoryouri Ikasei Honten.
While squid is Hakodate's most famous delicacy, there are other great seafood on the menu as well, including fugu (globefish), a lesser known specialty of Southern Hokkaido, which is available when in season from Funkawan (Uchiura Bay).
Phone: 0138-54-1919
- Address:
- 2-14 Hon-cho, Hakodate-shi, Hokkaido
- Open:
- Weekdays, Saturdays, day before holidays
17:00 – last order 23:30
Sundays and holidays
16:00 – last order 22:30 - Closed:
- Open all year
*Articles are written based on information available at the time of publication.
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